| Author |
Topic  |
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/02/2009 : 08:30:31 AM
|
2009 GMC Sierra w/ 5.3L T2500-1bd @ 1 ohm T1000-4 @ 4 ohms T400-2 @ 1 ohm (2) Kinetik 1800 batteries
I have noticed that the factory electrical is highly regulated - possibly through the computer.
I can start the truck & turn on heat, lights, fog lights, both heated seats, rear window defroster, etc... and the voltage will stay glued to 14.4 volts at idle.
Later, while driving I might notice the voltage is at 13.5 volts with no accessories turned on. No matter what I turn on or off it stays glued to 13.5 volts.
1) Can I set this somehow to stay at 14.4? 2) Can I set a new high output alternator to STAY at 14.4 or is the computer going to override?
I'm considering adding an alternator and leaving the stock electrical alone. Running a dedicated electrical system for the stereo and setting it at ~14.5 volts.
3) Would it be a problem that the 2 systems both use the engine/chassis as a ground? 4) Any other problems associated with doing this?
I need a little direction here. Thanks. |
Edited by - EAR2EAR on 11/02/2009 1:41:51 PM
|
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/02/2009 : 12:02:10 PM
|
| ya new gm's are tricky. they have the alt at 14.4 at start up but it only runs like that for a minute and drops down to what should be 13.8 There isn't really a way to set the stock alt. If you were to a swap, meaning change the factory one out for a high output alt there is a chance the computer would still regulate it and keep the same voltage your seeing now. If you do a completely separate alt or even if you run them together and have an external regulator for the 2nd alt then there's no way the computer could do anything with the 2nd alt |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/02/2009 : 1:40:44 PM
|
Yeah, 13.8 is about right.
I think I want to leave the stock battery & stock alternator alone.
Add a dedicated high output alternator and hook to the 2 Kinetiks. One fits in the extra spot under the hood. One goes in the back.
So is there a problem with the 2 electrical systems sharing a ground? (engine/chassis)
And if it physically doesn't hurt anything - will it create problems with ground loops or anything? The head unit and the amps would get power from 2 different systems with shared ground.
Thanks. |
 |
|
|
bkrupp
Senior Member
   
USA
1453 Posts |
Posted - 11/02/2009 : 6:52:41 PM
|
| I would say if you dont want to worry about the ground noise then just run the headunit off those kinetiks also. just run a 12 gauge wire or so fused of course to the head unit and run it that way. |
T20001bd, 2x T212D4, T400-2, Focal 6x9, 2x T600-2, 2x T1652-s, Kenwood DVD and Nav, all RF wire and accessories. 360.2 coming soon!!! |
 |
|
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 05:20:56 AM
|
Thanks bkrupp. Yeah, I guess the ground loop is the easy part.
So can anybody give me a reason not to do it this way? Any disadvantages?
Thanks. |
 |
|
|
lantzdarla
Senior Member
   
USA
1019 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 10:29:21 PM
|
just throw a MLA contoller on it...LOL!!
http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/index.html |
Member #002, AA---Amplifiers anonymous. "hello,my name is Lance, and where the hell is Justin!! |
 |
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/04/2009 : 9:48:58 PM
|
| thats how mine is. ive had alot of issues with ground loop but just means gotta work harder to fix it right? I think in something where you dont do as much replacing as i did you should be fine ground loop and all. I would make sure and run a ground for the HU to the back, have a ground dblock for everything to go to the rear battery ground directly (d-block not necessary and probably better if eliminated but use one if u have to) and possibly run a ground from the front battery as well as power |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/05/2009 : 07:20:11 AM
|
lantz: That's not a bad idea. I could replace the alternator with a 300amp and just add a contoller later if needed.
emp: The rear battery posts are my d-blocks. I can run the HU from there too. And yes, there will be dedicated + and - 1/0 to the rear.
So the -neg posts of the stock battery and new battery 'bank' are connected through the chassis. Do the different battery types matter since the +pos is completely separate? Both while the engine is running and off? |
 |
|
|
mrrairai
Advanced Member
    
USA
2408 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2009 : 05:51:06 AM
|
| EMP, how exactly did you wire up your system to run separate alts? I'm thinking about doing that but I'm ensure on how to set it up. |
Kenwood XXV-05V 7" (1) Clarion 7" Rear Screen (4) RF T212D2s (1) RF T40001BD/750X (2) RF T1652-S Power Components (1) RF 3SIXTY.2 (1) XS Power D6500 (2) XS Power D3100 Dual 270A Alts http://www.sounddomain.com/id/mrrairai |
 |
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2009 : 09:42:46 AM
|
its actually pretty easy. you just leave the stock system as is and run the 2nd electrical like it was the only one if that makes sense. Basically the only thing that is connected is the grounds.
if you want i can tell you exactly how i got everything wired up but its a jaw dropper |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
|
mrrairai
Advanced Member
    
USA
2408 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2009 : 10:05:20 AM
|
| Please do. |
Kenwood XXV-05V 7" (1) Clarion 7" Rear Screen (4) RF T212D2s (1) RF T40001BD/750X (2) RF T1652-S Power Components (1) RF 3SIXTY.2 (1) XS Power D6500 (2) XS Power D3100 Dual 270A Alts http://www.sounddomain.com/id/mrrairai |
Edited by - mrrairai on 11/19/2009 7:57:23 PM |
 |
|
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2009 : 10:57:54 AM
|
Jaw dropper how? Complex or expensive or what just curious...
I'm still interested in this too. If you go through the trouble of typing this out, would you post it here or include my email or PM?
Thanks
edit: removed email |
Edited by - EAR2EAR on 11/18/2009 08:08:18 AM |
 |
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2009 : 9:05:13 PM
|
POWER:
From the 2nd alt i have RF 2/0 to a type rf fuse box (350a) under the hood and a 2nd type rf fuse box (350a) in the trunk connected to kinetik #1. I then have a non fused run of rf 2/0 from kinetik #1 to kinetik #2. Thats it for the 2nd electrical.
I have a run of rf 1/0 from the fusebox under the hood to the type rf dblock (200a) in the trunk. I also have a run of rf 4g from the fusebox under the hood to a rf agu fuse holder(100a) then to the rf dblock (fused AGU with 4 8g out and 1/0 & double 4 in) on the rear deck. I then have a run of rf 1/0 to the type rf dblock (200a) in the trunk. I then have rf 2/0 going from the type rf dblock to the type rf battery terminal on kinetik #3
Ground:
I have a run of rf 2/0 from kinetik #1 to #2. Then a run of rf 2/0 from kinetik #2 to chassis ground. I have a run of rf 2/0 from kinetik #3 to chassis ground. I also have a run of rf 4g from the chassis ground to the antenna ground since it was like 2 inches away and i thought it was funny. Then i have a kicker ground block on the read deck (2 1/0, 3 4g). From that i have a run of EFX 1/0 to kinetik #1 and EFX 1/0 to kinetik #3. I then have a run of EFX 1/0 from kinetik #3 to the frame of the car
The only reason for the efx wire is price. and if rf made a dblock like the kicker one i would have got it (i actually had the current one with a single 1/0 to triple 4 but i swapped them because i wanted 2 1/0 slots) |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
|
EAR2EAR
Junior Member
 
371 Posts |
Posted - 11/18/2009 : 1:14:15 PM
|
Well, thank you very much for typing all that out.
I should be good with power & ground.
What's involved with the 'control' wiring to the alternator? I mean if you buy a complete dual kit - it ties into factory wiring and uses the factory pcm signal, doesn't it?
Basically, don't I want an AD244 case with 4 prong plug? The stock system is a DR37 with 2 wires.
Also, do I just tell Iraggi or Ohio Gen the voltage I want it set at? I assume they're not adjustable.
Thanks a lot. |
 |
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/19/2009 : 12:04:05 AM
|
well considering there wasn't a dual alt kit for my car im not sure how that goes
for mine i bought a 200a gm large case externally regulated alt and made it work in my car. So my voltage is adjustable via external regulator but i think they either come internally regulated at 14.4 or externally regulated adjustable |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
|
EmperorJJ1
Advanced Member
    
USA
4116 Posts |
Posted - 11/19/2009 : 12:05:06 AM
|
| connections from the alt are power/ground/regulator |
 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2604492 FIRST DUAL ALTERNATOR COBALT SS/SC Second 360.2 installed 2/6/09 |
 |
|
Topic  |
|